Bangkok, Thailand

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Airport: Bangkok Suvarnabhumi Airport (BKK)
Served by: British Airways, Cathay Pacific, Finnair, JAL Japan Airlines, Qantas, Royal Jordanian Airlines, S7 Airlines

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City Statistics

Location: Central Plain, Thailand.

Time zone: GMT + 7.

Electricity: 220 volts AC, 50Hz; two-pin plugs are standard.

Average January temperatures: 26°C (79°F).

Average July temperatures: 29°C (84°F).

Annual rainfall: 1,500mm (58.5 inches).

Overview

Buzzing, humid, exotic Bangkok is a larger-than-life city. For some, the frenetic pace, heat, traffic and lack of personal space can be overpowering but, for many others, the sheer dynamism is intoxicating. A blend of the traditional and the modern, Bangkok's every street has a surprise in store. Ramshackle buildings crouch next to exotic temples, in turn overlooked by modern hotels and offices. The chaos on Bangkok's roads is mirrored by the busy traffic on the Chao Phraya River, which dissects the city and is regularly crisscrossed by long-tailed boats, river taxis and small rowing boats, all miraculously missing each other. But traditional Thai life is never very far away. Weaving among the morning rush hour, saffron-robed monks collect alms, while moments from Bangkok city centre, communities live in stilt houses by the river, eking out a living using centuries-old skills.

Getting There By Air

Suvarnabhumi Airport (BKK)
Tel: (02) 132 1888/3888.
Website: www2.airportthai.co.th

Bangkok International Airport, located 30km (19 miles) east of the city centre, is operated by the Airports Authority of Thailand. Opened in September 2006, to replace cramped Don Muang Airport, it is a major gateway to South-East Asia.

Approximate flight times to Bangkok: From London is 11 hours 20 minutes; from New York is 19 hours 25 minutes; from Los Angeles is 9 hours 5 minutes; from Toronto is 19 hours 40 minutes and from Sydney is 9 hours 20 minutes.

Airport facilities: These include 24-hour shopping, duty-free, restaurants, snack bars, postal services, bureaux de change, tourist information, hotel reservations, left luggage and medical service. Car hire companies include Avis and Budget.

Business facilities: There is a business centre and Internet facilities. There are several executive lounges and services including limousine hire.

Transport to the city: Taxis can be pre-paid for at the Arrivals Hall in the airport; visitors should expect to pay up to B1,200 to the city centre (journey time - 40-90 minutes) including road tolls. Airport Express buses operate four different routes into the city. Route AE1 goes to the Silom Road business district, AE2 goes to Banglamphu, AE3 goes to Sukhumvit and AE4 goes to Hualampong Railway Station (journey times - about 1 hour). An overhead city rail link is currently under construction and is expected to open in mid 2009.

Getting Around

Public Transport: A monorail, the Bangkok Transit System (tel: (02) 617 6000; www.bts.co.th) known as the Skytrain, operates two lines. Passes can be bought and a one-day pass is available. The Bangkok Metro (tel: (02) 354 2000 or 624 5200; www.bangkokmetro.co.th) has 18 stations. The Bangkok Mass Transit Authority (tel: (02) 246 0973; www.bmta.co.th) runs a comprehensive, highly complex bus system.

Taxis: Taxis can be hailed, but check that the meter is turned on. In unmetered taxis, the fare must be agreed. Passengers pay for tolls and should ensure they have small change. Tuk-tuks are another way of getting around town. These three-wheeled taxis ply the streets and are ideal for short journeys. Fares must be negotiated before getting in. River taxis, operated by Chao Phraya Express Boat (tel: (02) 623 6143; www.chaophrayaboat.co.th), travel from Sathorn Pier near the Saphan Taksin Skytrain station to 10 piers near major attractions. Motorcycle taxis are popular. It is compulsory for passengers to wear helmets, supplied by the driver.

Driving in the City: For those who risk driving, many of the large shopping complexes and hotels have a car park.

Car Hire: Drivers must be at least 21, have held a licence for one to two years, have a national licence and Collision Damage Waiver and Theft Protection. See Avis at 2/12-13 Wireless Road (tel: (02) 255 5300; www.avisthailand.com), and Budget at 19-23 Building A, Royal City Avenue (tel: (02) 203 9294; www.budget.co.th).

Bicycle Hire: Bicycles can be hired from Spice Roads (tel: (02) 712 5305; www.spiceroads.com).

Hotels

Hotels

Hotels in Bangkok offers fantastic value to the western traveller, with five star hotels usually at prices you’d expect to pay for three star elsewhere. For cheap hotels in Bangkok at bargain prices, join the backpackers at the hostels on the Khao San Road, some of which are quite comfortable. Otherwise, head for Sukhumvit to experience the city’s bustle, or the riverside neighbourhoods to escape it.

The Bangkok hotels below have been grouped into three pricing categories:
Luxury (over US$220)
Moderate (US$150 to US$220)
Cheap (under US$150)
The prices quoted above are the lowest standard rates for a double room, excluding VAT and excluding breakfast, unless otherwise specified.

Many of the more upmarket hotels in Bangkok quote their prices in US dollars. Payment can usually be made in either Thai baht or US dollars. Hotels in Bangkok will usually add a service charge of 10% service charge and VAT at 7% to the hotel bill at the end. This tax could change as it is a government levy.

Cheap

Bel Aire Princess
This friendly first class hotel is conveniently located off the Sukhumvit Road, close to Nana Skytrain station and the expressway for the airport. It is decked out with a stylish minimalism. The 160 comfortable rooms are all good-sized with private bathrooms, satellite TV, mini-bar and tea and coffee making facilities. There is one restaurant serving Thai, Continental and Indian food, a bar plus an outdoor swimming pool and well-equipped fitness centre.

16 Sukhumvit Soi 5
Bangkok
Thailand
Tel: (02) 253 4300.
Web: www.bel-aireprincess.com/

Dream Hotel
This trendy boutique hotel, where the style is a fusion of East meets West, is now well-established on the Bangkok scene. The 200 rooms have plasma TVs, iPods, Wi-Fi and under-bed lighting. There are even pet-friendly rooms. There is one restaurant, Flava , and a cocktail lounge, spa, health club, swimming pool and business centre.

10 Sukhumvit Soi 15
Bangkok
Thailand
Tel: (02) 254 8500.
Web: www.dreambkk.com/

Luxury

Conrad Bangkok
Stylish Bangkok hotel, close to Lumphini Park, with contemporary, understated Thai design throughout. Silk and wood are used in all the rooms and suites. Superb facilities including several restaurants (Italian, Chinese and Japanese), nightclub, spa, fitness centre, swimming pool, jogging track and tennis courts.

Phatumwan
87 Wireless Road
Bangkok
Thailand
Tel: (02) 690 9999.
Web: www.conradhotels.com/

Peninsula
With commanding views of the Chao Phraya River, this hotel in Bangkok has a reputation for excellent service and hospitality. All rooms have a river view, some with balconies, terraces or outdoor Jacuzzis, and are sumptuously decorated. Rooms have marble bathrooms, executive work desk, CD/DVD player, camcorder video playback facilities and Wi-Fi. Diners are well catered for with several restaurants including Mediterranean cuisine at Jesters and Thai home-made style cooking at Thiptara. Leisure facilities include a spa, gym, tennis courts and three-tiered swimming pool.

Klongsan
333 Charoennakorn Road
Bangkok
Thailand
Tel: (02) 861 2888.
Web: www.peninsula.com/

The Oriental
One of the most famous hotels in the world, The Oriental is located by the Chao Phraya River and is the hotel of choice for royalty and celebrities past and present, such as Somerset Maugham, the Prince of Wales and Elizabeth Taylor. Although the original Author's Wing was built in 1887 and is very much colonial in style, two more modern wings tend to dominate the appearance of the hotel. However, the 393 rooms (including 35 suites) are all sumptuously decorated.

48 Oriental Avenue
Bangkok
Thailand
Tel: (02) 659 9000.
Web: www.mandarinoriental.com/bangkok

Moderate

The Dusit Thani
This is one of the most opulent hotels in Bangkok and is conveniently located off the Silom Road in the business and entertainment district overlooking Lumphini Park. The 500-plus rooms are all sumptuously decorated in Thai style and all have satellite TVs, VCRs and mini-bars.

946 Rama IV Road
Bangkok
Thailand
Tel: (02) 200 9000
Web: www.dusit.com

Amari Boulevard
The Amari chain has a range of hotels in Bangkok, but this boutique-style property is the best located if you want to soak up the city’s nightlife. A shiny lobby houses a baby grand piano, and the rooms are understated and comfortable. Step outside and you’re in the thick of things, with a great supermarket and food court right across the road as well as a nearby Sky Train station (Nana).

2 Soi 5 Sukhumvit Road
Bangkok
Thailand
Tel: (02) 255 2930.
Web: www.amari.com/boulevard/

The Eugenia
A fine boutique hotel, with just 12 suites, in an elegant colonial house. The suites all have antique furniture, part of a collection belonging to the owner. There is a lounge bar and a restaurant, the D B Bradley, which serves a fusion of east and west. Facilities include an open-air swimming pool and high-speed internet access. Airport transfers can be arranged in one of their fleet of vintage cars.

North Klongtan
267 Soi Sukhumvit 31
Wattana
Thailand
Tel: (02) 259 9017.
Web: www.theeugenia.com/

Business Etiquette

Most senior businesspeople in large or international companies will speak English, but it is not common in smaller companies. It is essential to make appointments for business meetings and to exchange business cards. Punctuality is also very important (although the visitor is quite often likely to be kept waiting after arrival), so the Bangkok traffic must be taken into consideration when going to appointments. Thai hosts are quite likely to give small gifts to visitors, so it is a good idea to reciprocate with a typical national gift of one's own. Visitors should never get angry or raise their voice if things are not going according to plan, as this will mean a loss of face on both sides. Much more progress will be made by remaining calm.

Meetings often take place over lunch and these are generally held in a Thai restaurant. Thai businesspeople are quite formal in their dress but, because of the extreme heat, it is quite acceptable and practical to dispense with the wearing of a suit jacket. Office hours are usually Monday to Friday 0800-1700. There is a large expat community in Bangkok, as well as a big after-work drinking scene.

Sightseeing

Sightseeing Overview: The sprawling city of Bangkok is full of interesting attractions for tourists, but the heavily congested traffic means it is difficult to cover a lot of ground in a single day. Sightseeing should be selective if time is short or restricted to one area per day, although the Skytrain and Metro do help visitors travel across town more quickly.

An excellent way to appreciate the city's layout is to go to the observation deck on the 77th floor of the Baiyoke Sky Hotel, one of the tallest hotels in the world.

Many of the main places of interest, such as the Royal Grand Palace, Wat Pho and the National Museum, are to the east of the Chao Phraya River (west of the north-south railway line) in an area called Rattanakosin Island, which is also home to many hotels. However, some visitors may stay to the east of the railway line in the Sukhumvit Road area, where there is excellent shopping, nightlife and tourist sights, such as Suan Pakkard Palace Museum and Jim Thompson Thai House.

Apart from the major sights (see Key Attractions), which are all ‘must-see', there are numerous other attractions, including over 400 temples. To the north of the Royal Grand Palace is Sanam Luang, which is a huge public area surrounded by old tamarind trees. This area is used for many ceremonies throughout the year, such as the Ploughing Ceremony, as well as being a popular place for kite-flying and just passing the time.

The revamped Museum of Siam, on Sanam Chai Road, traces the history of Thailand up to the modern day using interactive exhibits. Siam Ocean World is an aquarium attraction with a variety of deep ocean habitats and the opportunity to dive with sharks.

Chinatown is a lively area located between the river and Hualampong railway station. The area is fascinating for its maze of narrow lanes and open-fronted shops selling a cornucopia of items. On Yaowarat Road, Wat Trai Mit houses a gleaming solid gold Buddha, 3m (10ft) high and weighing over five tons. Close to Chinatown is Phahurat, the main Indian area, crammed with colourful fabric shops and excellent restaurants.

On Si Ayutthaya Road, in an elegant area full of government buildings and the current royal residence, is Wat Benjamabopit, mainly built with Italian marble and a mix of European and Thai architecture. Lumphini Park is a haven of tranquillity in the heart of the city, dotted with pavilions and two small lakes.

For visitors who do not have time to travel in the rest of Thailand, the Ancient City is an open-air museum with full-size and scaled-down replicas of famous buildings, monuments and temples from all over the country. It covers an area of 112 hectares (280 acres) and is 33km (20 miles) southeast of the city centre.

Well worth a visit is Bang Pa In, 60km (37 miles) north of Bangkok, the former summer residence of the royal family in the 17th century, which is a collection of buildings reflecting Oriental and European influences.

Whether visiting palaces or temples, it is important to dress respectfully. Entry can and will be refused if this rule is not followed.

Tourist Information: Tourism Authority of Thailand (TAT)
First Floor, 1600 New Phetburi Road
Makkasan, Rajatevee
Tel: (02) 250 5500.
Website: www.tourismthailand.org
Opening hours: Mon-Fri 0830-1630.

The TAT Call Centre (tel: 1672) is open daily 0800-2000. The tourist police provide 24-hour assistance for complaints and emergencies through the toll-free hotline (tel: 1155).

Key Attractions

Ban Kham Thieng
Ban Kham Thieng is a 200-year-old classic northern-style teak house, brought from Chiang Mai and reconstructed in Bangkok. The house was owned by a worker and shows the simplicity of rural life in the north during the last century. It contains a collection of traditional implements used by farmers and rice field fishermen.

Sukhumvit Road
131 Soi Asoke (Soi 21)
Bangkok
Thailand
Tel: (02) 661 6470.
Web: www.siam-society.org
Opening hours: Tues-Sat 0900-1700.
Admission Fee: Yes.
Disabled Access: Yes

Jim Thompson Thai House
Jim Thompson was an American who came to Bangkok after WWII and the Jim Thompson Thai House was his home until he mysteriously disappeared in Malaysia in 1967. He completely revived the Thai silk industry and his house, traditionally Thai in style, is now a museum showing his collection of Asian artefacts. The house is a complex of six traditional Thai teak structures brought to Bangkok from various parts of Thailand and its construction was completed in 1955. The house can only be visited on a guided tour..

Rama I Road
6 Soi Kasemsan 2 Song
Bangkok
Thailand
Tel: (02) 216 7368.
Web: www.jimthompsonhouse.com
Opening hours: Daily 0900-1700.
Admission Fee: Yes.
Disabled Access: Yes

National Museum
One of the largest and most comprehensive museums in the region, the National Museum houses a vast collection of artefacts from the Neolithic period through to more recent periods. The building, begun in 1782, is fascinating in its own right, having been built in traditional Thai style. The museum is so large that it needs more than one visit, however if time is short, it must be spent in the lovely teak pavilion, which houses personal royal belongings. Free guided tours in English are given by volunteers at 0930 on Wednesdays and Thursdays and are highly recommended.

Na Phrathat Road
Bangkok
Thailand
Tel: (02) 224 1333/1370.
Web: www.thailandmuseum.com
Opening hours: Wed-Sun 0900-1600.
Admission Fee: Yes.
Disabled Access: Yes

Royal Barge National Museum
The royal barges are rarely used by the royal family these days because of their age. A few of them are now preserved in the Royal Barge National Museum on the Thonburi side of the Chao Phraya River. The eight long, narrow boats on display are intricately gilded and each need between 50 and 60 rowers to take their oars. The figure on the bow of each boat signifies whether it carries the King and Queen or other members of the royal family. The most important barge is the Suphannahong, exclusively used by the King.

Khlong Bangkok Noi
Bangkok
Thailand
Tel: (02) 424 0004.
Web: www.thailandmuseum.com
Opening hours: Daily 0900-1700.
Admission Fee: Yes.
Disabled Access: Yes

Royal Grand Palace
The Royal Grand Palace is a glittering walled complex that houses several palaces, all highly decorated with tiles and ceramics. Building began in 1782 when Bangkok was founded as the capital of Thailand. The complex houses Wat Phra Kaeo, the holiest of all Thai temples, where the sacred Emerald Buddha rests, not covered in emeralds but jade. There is a strict dress code and visitors wearing shorts, mini-skirts, sleeveless shirts or flip-flops will be refused entry, although it is possible to hire trousers and plastic shoes.

Na Phra Lan Road
Bangkok
Thailand
Tel: (02) 623 5500.
Web: www.palaces.thai.net
Opening hours: Daily 0830-1530.
Admission Fee: Yes.
Disabled Access: Yes

Suan Pakkad Palace Museum
Suan Pakkad Palace used to be the residence of Princess Chumphot, one of Thailand's leading art collectors. Eight traditional wooden Thai houses, brought to Bangkok from around the country, are set in one of the loveliest gardens in the city. The museum houses an important collection of antiques.

Rajathevi
Sri Ayudhaya Road
Bangkok
Thailand
Tel: (02) 245 4934.
Web: www.suanpakkad.com
Opening hours: Daily 0900-1600.
Admission Fee: Yes.
Disabled Access: Yes

Vimanmek Palace
Vimanmek Palace is the world's largest building made entirely of golden teak. It used to be a royal summer retreat and was dismantled and rebuilt in Bangkok in 1900. The 81-room mansion stands in carefully manicured lawns, located close to the current royal residence, and contains 31 exhibition rooms. Visitors are not free to wander but must take a guided tour, which take place every 30 minutes. Highlights include Thailand's first indoor bathroom and the oldest typewriter with Thai characters. The dress code is the same as for the Royal Grand Palace.

Ratchawithi Road
Bangkok
Thailand
Tel: (02) 628 6300.
Web: www.vimanmek.com
Opening hours: Daily 0930-1515.
Admission Fee: Yes (included with ticket to the Royal Grand Palace).
Disabled Access: Yes

Culture

If you're interested in sampling culture within the city, there is a wealth of things on offer.Classical Music

Sala Rim Naam
This spot is owned by the Mandarin Oriental Hotel and located on the opposite bank of the Chao Phraya River. The nightly traditional music and dance show starts at 2030, preceded by dinner at 1900. Although there are numerous traditional shows daily throughout the city, this one, reputed to be the best in Thailand and beautifully located in a traditional teak pavilion-style restaurant, is unmissable. 48 Oriental Avenue Tel: (02) 437 6211. www.mandarinoriental.com/bangkok

Opera

Thailand Cultural Centre
The Bangkok Symphony Orchestra and the Bangkok Opera perform here. Ratchadaphisek Road Tel: (02) 247 0028. www.culture.go.th

Theatre

Chalerm Krung Royal Theatre
As well as housing the city's oldest cinema (dating back to 1933), this theatre has regular performances of plays and musical dance dramas. Charoen Krung (New Road) Tel: (02) 222 0434. www.salachalermkrung.com

National Theatre
Classical Thai dramas are very colourful and expressive, and these are usually held on the last Friday and Saturday of each month at this grand theatre. 2 Rachini Road Tel: (02) 224 1342.

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