Moscow, Russia
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Airport: Moscow Domodedovo (DME)
Served by: British Airways, Cathay Pacific, Iberia, JAL, Royal Jordanian, S7 Airlines
Airport: Moscow Sheremetjevo (SVO)
Served by: Finnair
City Statistics
Annual snowfall
132mm (5.2 inches).
Overview
Getting There By Air
Tel: (495) 232 6565.
Website: www.sheremetyevo-airport.ru
Located 30km (19 miles) from Moscow, Sheremetyevo is the busiest of Moscow's four airports (the other airports are Vnukovo, Domodedovo and Bykovo). There are two terminals and most flights serving destinations outside the former Soviet Union, land or take off from here.
Airport facilities: The terminals have banks, bureaux de change, a post office with fax and e-mail services, newsagents, a pharmacy, left-luggage, first-aid facilities, duty-free shops, and a limited number of quite expensive restaurants, bars, and cafes. Car hire is available from Avis and Europcar.
Transport to the city: Most hotels will pick up their guests in a courtesy van for a fee. Taxis are probably the next simplest and safest way to get to the city, although they are expensive. It is a good idea to book in advance because fares arranged on arrival can be twice as expensive. Krasnaya Gorka Taxis (tel: (495) 454 6291/7201) operates a taxi service from the airport.
To reach Moscow by public transport, take minibus 851 to Rechnoy Vokzal metro station, then the Metro to the city centre (journey times - 45 minutes by bus, then 30 minutes by Metro to the centre). Alternatively, take bus 817 to the Planernaya metro station.
Aeroexpress trains now connect directly Sheremetyevo Airport to Belorussky Railway Station.
Domodedovo International Airport
Tel: (495) 933 6666.
Website: www.domodedovo.ru
The privately-owned Domodedovo Airport, located 34km (21 miles) south of Moscow, receives flights from Western Europe, America, the Middle East and several destinations in Asia.
Airport facilities: The terminal has banks, ATMs, bureau de change facilities, a post office, Internet kiosks, information desks and travel centre, several restaurants, bars and coffee shops, shops and duty-free, a business centre, VIP lounges and conference rooms available for hire and short and long term parking. Car hire is available from Europcar, Hertz and Sixt by advance bookings only.
Transport to the city: A fast and efficient rail service runs between Domodedovo and Paveletsky Vokzal railway station, just south of the river in central Moscow. The high-speed Aeroexpress train runs every half hour in both directions (journey time - 40-50 minutes). A number of airlines provide their passengers with free tickets to the Aeroexpress train. Alternatively, you can take the Modern Scania express bus from the airport to Domodedovskaya Metro station (journey time - 30 minutes). Tickets can be purchased the Russian airlines hall. Taxis to the centre (journey time - 1hour 30 minutes) are best booked in advance from Gorodskoe Taxi (tel: 500 0500) or on arrival at one of the taxi desks in the arrivals terminal.
Approximate flight times to Moscow: From London is 3 hours 30 minutes; from Munich is 4 hours; New York is 9 hours; from Los Angeles is 12 hours; and from Sydney is 20 hours.
Getting Around
Hotels
Although there is a wide selection of luxury and top range hotels in Moscow, there is a notable scarcity of reasonable mid-range accommodation and very little that can truly be regarded as cheap. Moscow is an expensive city and nowhere is this more apparent than in its sky-high hotel tariffs. As a general rule, hotels in Moscow aimed squarely at the tourist trade tend to be close to the city centre whilst many business hotels are found in the suburbs close to the ring roads. The Moscow hotels below have been grouped into three pricing categories: Luxury (over Rb9,000) Moderate (Rb6,000 to Rb9,000) Cheap (up to Rb6,000) These Moscow hotel prices are the starting prices for a standard double room. They include VAT but not sales tax or breakfast, unless otherwise specified.
Cheap
Warsaw Hotel
Although its location at Oktyabrskaya ploschad may not be one of Moscow's most picturesque, Warsaw Hotel is nevertheless highly convenient for a good choice of restaurants in the Zamoskvorechie area and is one of the best options for cheap hotels in Moscow.
Leninsky Prospekt 2/1
Moscow
Russia
Tel: (495) 777 1938.
Web: www.hotel-varsava.ru
Peking Hotel
Built in 1956 as a 'little sister' to Stalin's Seven Sister skyscrapers and intended as post-war headquarters for the secret police, Moscow's Peking Hotel was instead converted into a classic Russian hotel. The Peking was renovated in 2002 but the Stalin-era neoclassical style was preserved, and the interiors feature high ceilings, marble staircases and parquet flooring. Although slightly old-fashioned, its 130 rooms are comfortable, with satellite TV and en-suite bathrooms.
Sadovaya ulitsa 5/1
Moscow
Russia
Tel: (495) 237 2461.
Web: www.hotelpekin.ru/en
Izmailovo (Gamma-Delta)
Constructed to accommodate visitors to the 1980 Olympics, the concrete towers of the Izmailovo hotel boasts a staggering 8,000 rooms. Although located out in the northern suburbs, the hotel is handy for the enormous Izmaylovo Market, the largest in Moscow, and the nearby Partizanskaya Metro station offers easy access to the centre. There are several restaurants and cafés and in-room Wi-Fi access is available with a card from the internet centre on the ground floor.
Izmailovskoye shosse 71
Moscow
Russia
Tel: (495) 737 7070.
Web: www.izmailovo.ru/en
Swissôtel Krasnye Holmy
The multi-award-winning Swissôtel Krasnye Holmy is an eye-catching modernist tower, looming above the Moscow River near Taganskaya Metro. From the upper floors, there are sweeping views towards the Kremlin and the Seven Sisters. There are 233 sleek and stylish rooms and suites, all with Wi-Fi access. In addition to a French restaurant and rooftop bar, this top Moscow hotel also has excellent conference facilities.
Kosmodamianskaya Naberezhnaya 52
Moscow
Russia
Tel: (495) 787 9800.
Web: www.swissotel.com
Golden Apple
As Moscow's first European-style boutique hotel, the Golden Apple offers imaginative styling and a friendly scale that is lacking in many of the super-sized 5-star hotels in Moscow. Behind the pale-blue Baroque facade, the lobby is dominated by a giant gold apple (hence the name), a modernist restaurant and an open-plan illuminated bar. Staff speak excellent English and the minimal design of the rooms is cosier than you might expect thanks to thoughtful use of lighting. The restaurant serves an appetising selection of dishes from Russia, Italy and Japan, and the hotel offers in-room Wi-Fi access, a gym and a sauna.
Malaya Dmitrovka ulitsa 11
Moscow
Russia
Tel: (495) 980 7000.
Web: www.goldenapple.ru/en
Hotel National
With what must be the perfect city-centre location overlooking the Kremlin, Hotel National boasts both class and comfort in abundance. Complete with frescoed ceilings, antique furniture and early 20th-century style, this is the obvious choice for someone seeking a classic, old-fashioned luxury hotel in Moscow. Rooms vary, but some of the better ones afford splendid views of the Kremlin.
Mokhovaya ulitsa 15/1
Moscow
Russia
Tel: (495) 258 7000.
Web: www.national.ru
Cosmos Hotel Moscow
Although away from the centre, Cosmos Hotel Moscow is one of the best value business-class hotels in Moscow. The bronze-coloured, 26-storey, semi-circular hotel was built in 1979 by French architects to house athletes and officials during the Moscow Olympics. Each of the 1,777 rooms, suites and apartments has an en-suite bathroom, satellite TV and mini-bar. The Moscow hotel also has a 24-hour business centre and a conference hall for up to 1,000 people with facilities for simultaneous translation.
Prospekt Mira 150
Moscow
Russia
Tel: (495) 234 1206.
Web: www.hotelcosmos.ru
Hotel Akvarel
Hotel Akvarel is one of the few small business-class hotels in Moscow that represent real value for money in this expensive city. There are just 23 clean and comfortable rooms that have slightly old-fashioned styling but modern amenities. It location, just five minutes from Red Square, makes it a perfect base for sightseeing, and the English-speaking staff offer a full range of business services. The only downside is the lack of Wi-Fi access in the meeting rooms, although there are modem ports. This is an ideal hotel for travellers who want to mix business with pleasure. Prices include breakfast, and rates are lower at weekends.
Stoleshnikov pereulok 12/3
Moscow
Russia
Tel: (495) 502 9430.
Web: www.hotelakvarel.ru
Historical Hotel Sovietsky
In the 1950s, Joseph Stalin decreed that the famous Yar restaurant should be upgraded to a hotel and the Historical Hotel Sovietsky was born. The Moscow hotel quickly became a showcase for the image of sophistication that the Soviet government wished to present to the world, and it still conjures up the nostalgia of this period in history. The 107 rooms and suites are spacious and grand, if a little lost in time, and all have Wi-Fi access.
Leningradsky Prospekt 32/2
Moscow
Russia
Tel: (495) 960 2000.
Web: www.sovietsky.ru
Business Etiquette
Foreigners are expected to be on time to all business appointments. However late your Russian counterpart might be, do not expect an apology. It is good form to check in overcoats before the meeting where possible. Shaking hands is expected of men and women but men should wait until a woman extends her hand before reaching for it. Between women, the older woman extends her hand first.
Business cards should ideally be printed in English, with Russian translation on the reverse. Directness that can verge on rudeness and evasiveness that parades as politeness are part of the Russian style of negotiation, so be persistent if you need specific answers to your questions. Be sure to get firm and positive answers from the people with the right authority, preferably in writing - Russia is still an extremely bureaucratic country. Always be aware of the official regulations. Ignorance will not be accepted as an excuse if you break the rules, and the penalties can be severe.
Sightseeing
The Garden Ring Road encircles the city centre and most of the famous sights are contained within this boundary. Many attractions are southwest of the Kremlin, along the river, including Gorky Park, the pedestrianised boulevard of ulitsa Arbat and the parklands surrounding the Luzhniki Stadium and Moscow State University. It is worth noting that most museums are closed on Monday.
Cosmos Hotel, 150 Prospekt Mira
Tel: (495) 730 1919.
Website: www.intourist.com
Opening hours: Mon-Fri 0900-1730.
Until recently, the Intourist travel company doubled as the official state tourist board. Today, however, it is just one of many tour agencies that can help with visa applications and package tours. Other useful sources of information include foreign embassies in Moscow and the information desk at the Metropol Hotel, Teatralny proezd 1/4 (tel: (495) 927 6000). You can also find useful information on the websites: www.moscowcity.com; www.moscow-taxi.com; www.russia-tourism.ru; www.russianmuseums.info and eng.menu.ru. To find telephone numbers in Moscow, try http://en.mbtg.ru.
Key Attractions
Named after Maxim Gorky, this huge public park was made world-famous by the Martin Cruz Smith novel and film of the same name. Locals flock to the Moscow park to escape the crush of the city and enjoy the fairground rides dotted around the gardens. It's a popular spot for a riverside promenade and you can pause to admire the Buran, a Russian space shuttle that never left the ground. At the back of the adjacent Iskusstv Park is a collection of Soviet sculptures (admission charge) relocated here after the fall of the Iron Curtain.
Krymsky Val ulitsa
Moscow
Russia
Tel: (495) 514 1507.
Opening hours: Daily 1000-2000.
Admission Fee: No
Disabled Access: Yes
Khram Khrista Spansitelya (Christ the Saviour Cathedral)
Christ the Saviour Cathedral is a monument to the struggles of 20th-century Moscow. The original cathedral was constructed between 1883 and 1889 to commemorate Moscow's victory over Napoleon, but in 1930, Stalin ordered the church to be demolished, to make way for one of his vain-glorious skyscrapers. On discovery that the ground was too soft, the area was turned into a huge outdoor swimming pool instead. The decision to resurrect the cathedral was the brainchild of Moscow mayor Yuri Luzkhov, and the gleaming new cathedral, completed in 1997, was paid for by public donations from school children, babushkas, public officials and rich benefactors alike.
Ulitsa Volkhonka 15-17
Moscow
Russia
Tel: (495) 201 3847.
Web: www.xxc.ru/english
Opening hours: Daily 1000-1700.
Admission Fee: No
Disabled Access: Yes
UNESCO site: Yes
Kremlin
Nerve centre of the Russian state, the Kremlin (literally 'fortified town') is undoubtedly Moscow's most famous monument. Dominated by churches and palaces dating back to the 15th and 16th centuries, this walled fortress was actually founded way back in 1147. From 1276 to 1712, it was the seat of government for the grand princes and tsars; and from 1918 to the early 1990s, that of the Communist government. Undeniably iconic, the Kremlin is inexorably linked to the most monumental events in Russian history. This importance is reflected in its UNESCO World Heritage status - there's no better place to consider the fascinating complexities of Russian history.
Krasnaya ploshchad
Moscow
Russia
Tel: (495) 697 0349.
Web: www.kremlin.museum.ru
Opening hours: Fri-Wed 1000-1700.
Admission Fee: Yes
Disabled Access: Yes
UNESCO site: Yes
Mavzoley Lenina (Lenin's Mausoleum)
The Soviet Union's founder lies in state on the eastern side of the Kremlin in a red and black granite mausoleum facing Red Square. Lenin died in 1924 and his embalmed body was installed inside the mausoleum inside a crystal casket. Boris Yeltsin was keen to have this symbol of the Soviet Union removed, but for the time being, the Russian authorities seem committed to preserving his body for future generations. Visitors are expected to be respectful (no hats, cameras or hands in pockets) when paying a visit, and should check visiting times in advance as the mausoleum often closes without notice.
Krasnaya ploshchad
Moscow
Russia
Opening hours: Tues-Thurs and Sat-Sun 1000-1300.
Admission Fee: No
Disabled Access: Yes
Memorialny Muzey Kosmonavtiki (Memorial Museum of Cosmonautics)
This fascinating Moscow museum sits in the shadow of the 100m-high (328ft) titanium Space Obelisk that has wonderful frescoes depicting Soviet space exploration. Nearby, the colonnaded House of the People's of Russia, with a 35m (115ft) golden spire topped with a huge star, is a prime example of Moscow's classical Stalinist architecture and there is also a creaky Ferris wheel for the brave. The Fountain of the Friendship of Peoples forms the centrepiece for a plaza of nine pavilions that celebrate Soviet achievements in science. Outside the museum are two Tupolev passenger aircraft and a Vostok rocket of the same type that took Yuri Gagarin into space.
Prospekt Mira 111
Moscow
Russia
Tel: (495) 683 7968.
Opening hours: Tue-Sun 1000-1900.
Admission Fee: Yes
Disabled Access: Yes
Novodevichy Monastyr (Novodevichy Convent)
Founded in 1524 by Grand Prince Vassily III, Moscow's Novodevichy Convent contains the Sobor Smolensk Bogomateri (Cathedral of the Virgin of Smolensk), with its distinctive golden onion domes and tiered bell tower dating from 1690. The cathedral itself was built in 1525 and features 16th-century frescoes, as well as a magnificent late 17th-century iconostasis. The convent, now a UNESCO World Heritage site, was a place of exile for noblewomen in mourning or disfavour. The adjacent Novodevichy Cemetery is equally interesting and contains the graves of many distinguished Muscovites, including Nikita Krushchev, Nikolai Gogol, Sergei Prokofiev and Anton Chekhov.
Novodevichy proezd 1
Moscow
Russia
Tel: (495) 246 8526.
Web: Yes.
Opening hours: Wed-Mon 1000-1700 (closed first Monday of the month).
Admission Fee: No
Disabled Access: Yes
UNESCO site: Yes
Pokrovsky Sobor (St Basil's Cathedral)
Nothing says 'Moscow' quite like the candy-coloured onion domes of St Basil's Cathedral. This amazing piece of architectural confectionary is one of the most striking buildings on the planet, a surreal collection of arches and turrets, topped by a series of domes like Christmas baubles. The cathedral was built in the 1550s to commemorate Ivan the Terrible's victory over the Mongols at Kazan. The exterior alone may be highly impressive but venture inside to witness some of the finest icons and religious murals in Moscow. Inside each of the nine towers is a chapel, but no public services are held here.
Krasnaya ploshchad 4
Moscow
Russia
Tel: (495) 298 3304.
Opening hours: Wed-Mon 1100-1730.
Admission Fee: No
Disabled Access: Yes
UNESCO site: Yes
Culture
MKhAT imeni Chekhova (Moscow Art Theatre)
Named in honour of Anton Chekov, whose plays it first staged, this is Moscow's pre-eminent theatre company founded in 1898. It was here that drama was revolutionised in Europe, the theatre providing a venue for the method-acting techniques of Konstantin Stanislavsky. Now staging works that are generally more classically mainstream than avant-garde, it continues its fine tradition of method acting. English-language performances of Russian classics are sometimes staged by the American studio. Kamergersky pereulok 3, Moscow Tel: (495) 629 8760. Website: www.art.theatre.ru
Maly Teatr (Small Theatre)
This attractive small Moscow theatre, founded in the early 19th century, has a history of staging plays of political and social satire. Some of Russia's most famous playwrights, including Nikolai Gogol, staged their first plays here. There are performances of mostly 19th-century classical works daily at 1900, but most plays are performed in the original Russian. Teatralnaya ploshchad 1/6, Moscow Tel: (499) 623 2621. Website: www.maly.ru
Bolshoi Ballet and Opera Company
Perhaps the most renowned company in the world, performances are staged here daily from 1700 from September to June, with weekend matinees at noon. The company, formed in 1773, took up residence at this Moscow theatre in 1824. Its international reputation was consolidated by theatre director Yuri Grigorovich, who led the company on a series of ground-breaking world tours between 1964 and 1995. The theatre itself is a striking neo-classical building, renowned for its size and the quality of the acoustics. Bolshoi Theatre, Teatralnaya ploshchad 1, Moscow Tel: (495) 250 7317. Website: www.bolshoi.ru
Tchaikovsky Concert Hall
Home base for Russia's State Symphony Orchestra when not busy touring the world, this Moscow concert hall hosts a full programme of symphony and chamber concerts in addition to special festivals and performances of Russian national dance, organ and choral music. Naturally, the music of Tchaikovsky is a speciality here but the works of other Russian classical composers feature prominently in the programme too. Triumfalnaya ploshchad 4/31, Moscow Tel: (495) 232 5353.
Moscow Tchaikovsky Conservatory
As well as being a venue for major concerts, this Moscow institution remains Russia's largest and most famous music school. Premieres of works by Sergei Prokofiev and Dmitry Shostakovich have taken place here and the conservatory's honorary founder, Pyotr Tchaikovsky, formerly taught here, although the composer died before public concerts started in 1898. One of the students who he commended for his thesis project was none other than Sergei Rachmaninoff. Bolshaya Nikitskaya ulitsa 13/6, Moscow Tel: (495) 629 9401 or 629 8183 (box office). Website: www.mosconsv.ru
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