Alcatraz
Looming menacingly in the Bay, near Fisherman's Wharf, Alcatraz (known simply as 'The Rock') was the site of the USA's toughest maximum-security prison, from 1934 until 1963. Al Capone lodged there, as did birdman Robert Stroud, although his infamy is based more on Hollywood legend than fact - he never did keep birds here. Alcatraz, which imprisoned convicts as much with the Bay estuary's lethal currents as with manmade bars, opened to a curious public in 1973. Now part of the Golden Gate National Recreation Area, its on-island activities include trail walks, audio tours narrated by former inmates and guards and ranger-led tours. The frustration of being able to witness the natural beauty and bright lights of the Bay communities from just a mile away, which must have been felt by many an inmate, is palpable. Alcatraz Island was also the site of the first lighthouse built on the Pacific Coast. Visitors are advised to book early and wear warm clothes.

Alcatraz Island (ferries depart from Pier 33)
San Francisco
United States
Tel: (415) 705 5555.
Web: www.nps.gov/alcatraz
Opening hours: Departures daily 0900-1830 (summer), 0930-1630 (all other seasons). Night tours also available.
Admission Fee: Yes


Cable Cars
One of San Francisco's principal attractions is its network of century-old cable cars, America's only mobile National Historic Landmark. The system was opened in 1873, when Andrew Hallidie guided the first car down Clay Street, near Portsmouth Square, to replace horse-drawn streetcars. It was refurbished in the 1980s. The ride and the views can best be enjoyed standing on one of the outside platforms but travellers should hold on tight and watch out for traffic. The cars operate along three routes. The Powell-Hyde and Powell-Mason lines, beginning at Powell Street and Market Street, run roughly north-south between Fisherman's Wharf and Union Square. The California Street line runs east-west from California Street and Market Street, near the Embarcadero to Van Ness Avenue. The cars are turned by hand on turntables at the end of the line - all part of the experience. A visit to the free Cable Car Museum (www.cablecarmuseum.org) completes the experience. Here, located in the city's only remaining cable car barn and powerhouse, visitors can view the cable-winding machinery as it reels 17km (11 miles) of steel at a steady pace of 15km (9.5 miles) per hour. The mechanism is much more interesting than you might think and a video, historical memorabilia and gift shop make the museum a compelling stop.

Powell Street, Market Street and California Street, San Francisco
United States
Tel: (415) 701 2311.
Web: www.sfcablecar.com
Opening hours: Mon-Fri 0600-0130.
Admission Fee: Yes


Cartoon Art Museum
The Cartoon Art Museum, the only one of its kind on the West Coast, displays rotating exhibitions of art, from underground cartoons to popular comic books and animation. An enormous permanent collection and a CD-Rom gallery explore every facet of cartoon art. Saturday afternoon cartooning classes are offered regularly.

South of Market
655 Mission Street
San Francisco
United States
Tel: (415) 227 8666.
Web: www.cartoonart.org
Opening hours: Tues-Sun 1100-1700.
Admission Fee: Yes
Disabled Access: Yes


Contemporary Jewish Museum
Under the creative direction of architect Daniel Libeskind, The Contemporary Jewish Museum reopened in June 2008 in the landmark 1907 Jessie Street Power Substation, recognised by the 3,000 blue steel panels that clad the exterior. With a 'no permanent exhibitions' policy, the museum hopes to earn kudos as a 'dynamic and ever-changing' art hub representing the highest level of artistic achievement.

736 Mission Street (between Third and Fourth Streets)
San Francisco
United States
Tel: (415) 655 7800.
Web: www.thecjm.org
Opening hours: Fri-Tues 1100-1730, Thurs 1300-2030.
Admission Fee: Yes
Disabled Access: Yes


Ferry Building
Standing regally on the Embarcadero at the foot of Market Street, the iconic Ferry Building has long been a San Francisco landmark. It opened in 1898 as the transportation hub for ferry commuters and train travellers. At its peak it saw as many as 50,000 ferry commuters a day. However, in the 1930s, when commuters preferred vehicular routes, few people darkened its door. In the 1950s the interior was converted into unsightly office space and was further obscured by the double-deck Embarcadero Freeway, which ran past the front entry. Though ferry commuters returned in the 1970s it wasn't until the freeway was eventually damaged by earthquake in 1989, then torn down in 1991, that the Ferry Building's potential was harnessed. Today the repeating interior arches and overhead skylights in the grandiose central nave provide a home for purveyors of the finest cuisine from the Bay Area and around the world. A simple stroll can uncover epicurean delights such as truffles and caviar, organic fruit and vegetables, Italian delicatessens, artisan cheeses, fresh local fish, patisseries, a bakery, wine bar and tea shop, coffee shops and restaurants. The Book Passage bookstore hosts author events, seminars and legendary Mystery Writers' & Travel Writers' conferences. A farmers' market is held on Tuesdays and Saturdays around the main building with small, local outfitters selling seasonal and organically grown produce. A Thursday night market is open during summer only.

The Embarcadero
One Ferry Building
San Francisco
United States
Tel: (415) 693 0996.
Web: www.ferrybuildingmarketplace.com
Disabled Access: Yes


Fisherman's Wharf and Pier 39
In the daytime, visitors throng the sidewalks and piers of Fisherman's Wharf - a centre for tacky souvenirs, Bay-view restaurants, shops, attractions and the spectacle of some 500 resident sea lions crowded onto pontoons to sunbathe. The sea lions appeared soon after the 1989 earthquake and have made this area home, leaving only briefly during the spring to breed in the Channel Islands. But in the early hours of the morning, from dawn until 0900, the ambitious visitor can get quite another view - that of a busy fish distribution centre sending out seafood both locally and further afield. Dylan Thomas once waxed lyrical to his wife, Caitlin, about the quality of the lobsters, clams and crabs here and small wonder - oysters, chowder, crab and shrimp cocktail are sold in disposable cartons on the wharf, for eating while strolling. Pier 39, where Beach Street meets The Embarcadero, is actually one of 29 curiously numbered piers on the waterfront and is now the city's biggest attraction. Not only is it home to the sea lions but also many other attractions, such as the Aquarium of the Bay, where moving sidewalks are surrounded on three sides by water. Sightseeing boats leave from Pier 39 and the neighbouring Pier 41. The Cannery houses 30 speciality shops, while Ghirardelli Square, a former chocolate factory turned chic shopping centre, close by at the west end of Fisherman's Wharf, can also be approached from the wharf. Hyde Street Pier, which displays historic ships (including the Eureka, an 1890 paddle wheeler, and the schooner CA Thayer) and the art deco Maritime Museum, show how life in the city a century ago was much more entwined with the marine industry.

The Embarcadero, San Francisco
United States
Tel: (415) 674 7503.
Web: www.fishermanswharf.org
Disabled Access: Yes


Golden Gate Bridge
The beautiful Golden Gate Bridge, which connects San Francisco to Marin County, is not gold, of course, but a vivid rusty orange that stands out even through the frequent thick fogs. Spanning 2.7km (1.7 miles), the bridge is one of the wonders of the modern world and one of five bridges that span the Bay. The best views of the Golden Gate Bridge are from Fort Point in the Presidio (Long Avenue and Marine Drive) and Visa Point, on the Marin side at the north end of the bridge. A walk or, at least, a drive across the bridge is essential (walking takes approximately half an hour and walkers should dress warmly). The two pivotal cables contain enough steel wire to encircle the equator three times, while the concrete alone would provide enough material for a pavement from San Francisco to New York.

Highway 101 (Lincoln Boulevard)
San Francisco
United States
Tel: (415) 921 5858.
Web: www.goldengatebridge.org
Opening hours: Daily 24 hours (roadway and bicycle access); daily 0500-2100 (pedestrian sidewalk).
Admission Fee: No
Disabled Access: Yes


Golden Gate Park
The 412 hectares (1,017 acres) of Golden Gate Park encompass meadows, lakes, myriad gardens, an open-air music concourse, a children's playground and vintage carousel, a buffalo paddock and the tallest artificial waterfall in the West. The park fronts Ocean Beach, which affords spectacular sunset views. Some 10,000 plant species flourish in the San Francisco Botanical Garden, while the must-see Japanese Tea Garden is an absolute haven. The Conservatory of Flowers is a living museum of rare and tropical plants. Founded in 1895, the de Young Museum has moved twice due to earthquakes, but but its feet are now firmly planted at the Fine Arts Museums of San Francisco (FAMSF), which includes the de Young Museum and the Legion of Honor. The new de Young, rebuilt in 2005 and largely supported with private money, holds many surprises, not least the textured copper facade and spiralling tower rising like a beacon in Golden Gate Park. Galleries flow from one to the next, each an experience that touches the senses. Gaze at fifth-century Peruvian artefacts and prized Maori sculptures from New Zealand, then wander through the Rockefeller Collection of American Paintings to dangling collages of modern art.

Tel: (415) 831 2700.
Web: www.golden-gate-park.com
Disabled Access: Yes


Japantown
It may only be a few miles away but Japantown (bounded by Laguna Street, Geary Street, Post Street and Fillmore Street) could not be more different to the Mission. The city's growing Japanese population has a home here but the area also is a commercial centre. Walking up Geary Street or Post Street from Union Square brings the five-tier Peace Pagoda into view. The pagoda and the Japan Centre are the focal point of the community's cultural and business life, as well as the site of several seasonal festivals. Visitors can partake in a Japanese communal bath or one of the many massages offered at the essential Kabuki Springs and Spa (www.kabukisprings.com). Tuesdays are mixed gender and swimming suits are required.

Laguna Street, Geary Street, Post Street and Fillmore Street, San Francisco
United States
Disabled Access: Yes