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Santiago, Chile

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Airport: Santiago Arturo Merino Benitez (SCL)
Served by: American Airlines, Iberia, LAN

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City Statistics

Location: Metropolitan Region, Chile.
Time zone: GMT - 4 (GMT - 3 from second Sunday in October to second Sunday in March).
Electricity: 220 volts, 50Hz; round two-pin plugs are standard.
Average January temperatures: 21°C (70°F).
Average July temperatures: 9°C (48°F).
Annual rainfall: 384mm (15.1 inches).

Overview

Santiago de Chile enjoys a spectacular setting: sprawled across the fertile Santiago valley, 100km (62 miles) from the Pacific coast, the city is dominated by the mighty Andes to the east and a smaller coastal mountain range to the west. Many visitors still regard Santiago as little more than a convenient place to spend the night before heading elsewhere in Chile. But to avoid Santiago is to overlook a quirky, vibrant city. Travellers prepared to venture beyond their hotel lobbies will be rewarded by colonial churches, lively markets, colourful street life and a surprisingly varied restaurant scene and nightlife. In the bustling city centre, modern structures sit alongside colonial buildings, and the 18th-century cathedral is reflected in a glass-fronted tower block. Santiago is a city of atmospheric old quarters and shady parks with a thriving artistic and cultural scene. The city's museums, albeit small, boast impressive collections, while quality cuisine is accessible to those on even the tightest of budgets.

Getting There By Air

Aeropuerto Arturo Merino Benítez (SCL)
Tel: (02) 690 1752 or 1753 (information).
Website: www.aeropuertosantiago.cl

Most flights to Santiago arrive at the Arturo Merino Benítez Airport located in the city's eastern suburb of Pudahuel, 25km (16 miles) northwest of the city. There are two terminals, international and domestic.

Approximate flight times to Santiago: From London is 20 hours; from New York is 10 hours; from Los Angeles is 14 hours; from Toronto is 16 hours and from Sydney is 18 hours.

Airport facilities: These include restaurants, bars, a post office, left luggage, tourist information, duty-free shops, boutiques, VIP lounges, a first-aid centre, a bureau de change and ATMs. Passengers in search of lost property should call the airport's helpline (tel: (02) 690 1707), open daily 0830-1730. Car hire is available from several companies, including Avis, Alamo, Budget and Hertz.

Transport to the city: Tur-Bus (tel: 600 660 6600, in Chile only, or (02) 601 9573; www.turbus.cl) operates shuttle buses that leave every 30 minutes from outside arrivals, stopping at city centre locations, including Los Héroes and Universidad de Santiago Metro stations. CentroPuerto (tel: (02) 601 9883 or 0549) offers a similar service but is slightly cheaper. Door-to-door mini-van transfers from airport to hotel are available through TransVip (tel: (02) 677 3000; www.transvip.cl) and TurTransfer (tel: (02) 677 3600; www.turtransfer.cl). It is possible to find space in one of these mini-vans on arrival but advance booking is advisable. The airport's official taxi service (tel: (02) 690 1381; www.taxioficial.cl) is available 24 hours a day. A trip to the downtown area should cost no more than US$20-25 (journey time - approximately 25 minutes, although it can take much longer due to traffic).

Getting Around

Public Transport: Santiago's transport system has been plagued by problems recently. Transantiago (tel: 600 730 0073, in Chile only; www.transantiagoinforma.cl), an ambitious plan to overhaul the city's public transport infrastructure, has proved woefully inadequate and officials are desperately trying to repair the damage done to commuter relations. Strikes and complaints have been commonplace since Transantiago began in 2005.

Tarjeta Bip! travel cards (tel: 800 730 073; www.transantiagoinforma.cl/tarjetaBip.do (in Spanish only)) are valid for travel on Santiago's Metro system and buses; you can buy these at Metro ticket offices. Each single fare on a Bip! card covers up to three interconnected metro/bus journeys over a period of two hours.

The modern Metro system, Metro de Santiago (tel: 600 730 0073, in Chile only; www.metrosantiago.cl), is still the easiest way to travel around Santiago, and is for the most part clean, efficient and reliable. Nevertheless it can get extremely crowded at peak hours (partly the result of poor bus route planning), and avoiding travel during rush hour is recommended. The Metro system has five lines which operate daily, closing overnight.

Santiago's city buses are run by private companies. The system has changed under the new Transantiago transport scheme. The old yellow fume-belchers no longer rule the streets; those on the major 'trunk' routes have now been painted white with green stripes, while other buses have different colours according to the zones they serve (there are nine outside the city centre). Gradually authorities have tried to instil more order, clamping down on the blatant competition. However, work still needs to be done to fine-tune the bus routes and ensure an adequate level of service.
Taxis: There is no shortage of taxis, which are black with yellow roofs. Taxi drivers are generally honest but occasionally take foreigners to their destinations via very indirect routes, as a means of bumping up the fare. Taxis should have meters, although the occasional dodgy, fast-moving meter is not unheard of either. Find out what your fare should be before you travel. Women travelling alone at night should exercise caution. Radio Taxi Andes-Pacífico (tel: (02) 204 0530; www.andespacifico.cl) and Radio Taxi Centro (tel: (02) 697 0106; www.rtcentro.cl) are reliable, well-established minicab firms.
Driving in the City: Driving in Santiago is a headache, with congestion to rival any European or North American metropolis - although most Chilean drivers are reasonably courteous. Attempts to combat pollution have included imposing limits on the use of cars that run on leaded petrol. Some areas impose traffic restrictions by barring entry to cars with certain registration numbers on certain days.

Many of the more upmarket hotels have a guest car park. Parking in the downtown area is difficult but there are two car parks close to Avenida Bernardo O'Higgins (Alameda). These are at Calle San Francisco 75 (tel: (02) 632 4024) and outside Calle Santa Rosa 76 (tel: (02) 460 8555). There are also underground estacionamientos along Avenida Providencia, situated beside Metro stations. Many of Santiago's car parks are owned by Saba (www.saba.es). Alternatively, many urban streets offer metered parking.
Car Hire: Most car hire companies require the driver to be 22 years or over. Drivers must hold a current driving licence from their country of origin (an International Driving Permit is not usually essential but can be helpful), and must show a passport and leave an imprint of a credit card as a deposit. Insurance is usually additional to the car rate and is recommended.

Providers include Chilean Rent A Car (tel: (02) 737 9650; www.chileanrentacar.cl), Avis (tel: (02)690 1382; www.avis.co.uk) and Rosselot (tel: (02) 690 1374; www.rosselot.cl).
Bicycle Hire: Cycling is becoming a lot easier in central Santiago. With the pollution and transport problems of recent years, using two wheels is a more attractive option than it used to be. That said, you do need to be careful about the route you take - dodging buses on the Alameda is not an experience many will enjoy. Nowadays, many of the city's parks have cycle lanes, there is a lovely riverside route and there is good mountain biking along the winding lanes of Cerro San Cristobál. You can hire mountain bikes from LYS Rent-a-Car, Calle Miraflores 537 (tel: (02) 633 7600; www.lys.cl).

Hotels

Hotels
Nowadays, Santiago can cater to most accommodation tastes. High-rollers can choose between dependable luxury chains or stylish boutique hotels while budget travellers need not stay in dives - the city is such a backpacker thoroughfare these days that there are plenty of low-cost places to stay. Most of the high-end options tend to be clustered in the financial district of Las Condes, while there are a couple of good-value mid-range hotels in Parque Forestal. Bellavista and Barrio Brasil have the most for budget visitors.

The hotels below have been classed into four different pricing categories:
$$$$ (over $200)
$$$ (US$130 to $200)
$$ (US$50 to $129)
$ (up to US$50)
The prices quoted above are the starting prices for a standard double room and include taxes and breakfast unless otherwise specified.

Luxury

Blue Tree Hotels Fundador
Renovated in 2008, the Fundador has large, comfortable rooms and polite staff, and is conveniently located in a quiet street near Universidad de Chile Metro station.

Paseo Serrano 34
Santiago
Chile
Tel: (02) 387 1200
Web: www.bluetree.com.br/

Hotel Orly
This is a fantastic boutique hotel of only 28 rooms, housed in a converted mansion. Located in an exclusive back street area of Providencia, Hotel Orly is just a short hop away from the city centre's business districts and tourist attractions. It has a relaxed, laid-back ambience and the décor is smart and sophisticated.

Avenida Pedro de Valdivia 027
Santiago
Chile
Tel: (02) 231 8947
Web: www.orlyhotel.com/

Ritz Carlton
This is the latest in hotel opulence in Santiago, where the service is impeccable, Egyptian sheets adorn your bed and there is just about every luxury you could possibly desire within the hotel's walls. Gyms, swimming pools, three restaurants and an internationally renowned sommelier are all available to those lucky enough to stay here.

Calle El Alcalde 15
Santiago
Chile
Tel: (02) 470 8500
Web: www.ritzcarlton.com/

Moderate

ChilHotel
Perhaps the most sensible option of any of the these listings, ChilHotel is practical, comfortable and affordable. On a quiet street within easy walking distance of the Metro in Providencia, it is the sort of place you would be happy to put your parents on a visit to the city with its good-value rooms (although some err on the small side) and polite service.

Cirujano Guzmán 103
Santiago
Chile
Tel: (02) 264 0643
Web: www.chilhotel.cl/

Recommended hotels

Hotel Foresta
This beautifully located hotel (right by Cerro Santa Lucía) has been around for a while. It has kept its old style, which means it is chock full of character, although sometimes this spills over into a slightly cluttered feel. However, the service is very attentive and with the arty district of Lastarria right next door, it is one of the best and most affordable options in town.

Subercaseaux 353
Santiago
Chile
Tel: (02) 639 6261

Hotel Paris Nuevo
Good budget option just round the corner from the Fundador. Make sure you ask for a room in the newer, nicer part of the hotel.

Calle Paris 813
Santiago
Chile
Tel: (02) 639 4037

Best Western Hotel Majestic
A quirky, rambling hotel with a fine Indian restaurant and very accommodating staff. This is one of the best value mid-range options in the central part of the city - although the surrounding area is too quiet at night for some tastes. You can usually negotiate a discount if you are staying for more than one night.

Santo Domingo 1526
Santiago
Chile
Tel: (02) 690 9400
Web: www.hotelmajestic.cl/

Happy House Hostel
A superb, ambitious renovation makes this colourful converted Barrio Brasil mansion the place to head to satisfy your old bohemian instincts - even though you now have more cash in your pockets. With everything from a games room to a delightful patio with views right over the city, this lovely relaxed place is for former backpackers who can afford to indulge themselves a bit more.

Catedral 2207
Santiago
Chile
Tel: (02) 688 4849
Web: www.happyhousehostel.cl/

Hotel Plaza San Francisco
This smart hotel has gleaming wood panels and courteous staff. Comfortable (sometimes luxurious) and efficient, it has a central location particularly convenient for business professionals. It is located on Santiago's busiest road, but the hotel's double-glazing shields the guests from noise.

Avenida Bernardo O'Higgins 816 (Alameda)
Santiago
Chile
Tel: (02) 360 4445
Web: www.plazasanfrancisco.cl/

Hotel Galerias
Impeccable modern rooms and efficient staff make this a popular choice among the business jet-set. Two Easter Island style statues guard the entrance to this plush hotel, upgraded in 2005 with an extensive refurbishment, and the South America décor theme is visible throughout. There is also a fine restaurant, the Vichuquén .

San Antonio 65
Santiago
Chile
Tel: (02) 470
Web: www.hotelgalerias.cl/

Business Etiquette

Financial life in Santiago remains formal both in dress code and conduct. In a business environment, usted, the polite Spanish form of address, should be used instead of the more familiar tu. Failure to observe this linguistic etiquette could be construed as disrespectful or even arrogant. Some Chilean executives speak reasonably competent English but any attempt to use Spanish, however faltering, will be greatly appreciated.

Like their counterparts in North America and Europe, members of Chile's business community make good use of the working lunch. Meanwhile, Santiago's international hotels have benefited in recent years from the increased popularity of the ‘business breakfast'. Chileans are generally very hospitable and it is not unknown for foreign business travellers to be invited to dinner at home.

Chile generally follows the North American model of the working day, Monday to Friday 0900-1800, although Chilean business workers are known for working long hours.

Sightseeing

Sightseeing Overview: Santiago is not as famed for its architectural heritage as other Latin American cities such as Mexico City or Buenos Aires. Those visiting Chile for leisure are unlikely to make it a highlight of their trip and most take only a fleeting glimpse before leaving the city to uncover the country's natural wonders.

Nevertheless, Santiago has much to offer travellers eager for cultural diversion and serene oases can be found in even the most fume-choked streets of the downtown area.

Visitors will find a city of lively markets, atmospheric old quarters and shady parks with thriving artistic, social and cultural scenes. The city's museums, albeit small, boast impressive collections, while quality cuisine is accessible to those on even the tightest of budgets. Note that many of the city's museums are free on Sunday.

Santiago is easy to master, as many of the city's main attractions are located in the small downtown area sandwiched between the Rio Mapocho (Mapocho River), Avenida Bernardo O'Higgins (the Alameda) and Cerro Santa Lucía.

Bellavista, just north of the river, is a popular area for its handicraft shops, restaurants and nightlife. It is situated below Cerro San Cristobál, which looms over the city.
Tourist Information: Servicio Nacional de Turismo - SERNATUR (National Tourism Board)
Avenida Providencia 1550
Tel: (02) 731 8336/7 or 600 737 6288, in Chile only.
Website: www.sernatur.cl
Opening hours: Mon-Fri 0900-1800, Sat 0900-1400.

SERNATUR has another office in the arrivals hall of the airport's international terminal:
Tel: (02) 601 9320.
Opening hours: Daily 0815-2000.

Oficina de Turismo Municipalidad de Santiago (Santiago Tourist Office)

Casa Colorada, Merced 860
Tel: (02) 632 7783.
Website: www.municipalidaddesantiago.cl
Opening hours: Mon-Fri 0900-1800, Sat 1000-1700.

There is another city tourist office on the Terraza Neptuno on Cerro Santa Lucía, and an excellent, more localised office in Providencia (Providencia 2359; tel: (02) 374 2743; http://citi.providencia.cl), open Monday to Friday 0900-2000 and Saturday and Sunday 1000-1900.
Passes: There are no tourist passes currently available in Santiago.

Key Attractions

Casa Colorada (Coloured House)
This 18th-century colonial mansion just off the Plaza de Armas is an attraction in itself, with its elegant facade and rose-coloured walls. It also houses the Museo de Santiago (Santiago Museum), which has amateurish but informative displays on the city's history from pre-Columbian times to the development of today's modern sprawl.

Calle Merced 680
Santiago
Chile
Tel: (02) 633 0723.
Opening hours: Tues-Fri 1000-1800, Sat 1000-1700, Sun 1100-1400.
Admission Fee: Yes
Disabled Access: Yes


Cementerio General
Until recently, this has been one of Santiago's hidden treasures, but it is now growing in popularity. This is no ordinary burial ground, more a mini-metropolis of extraordinary tombs. Some are extravagant, some are beautiful, almost all are striking in one way or another. It's also of great historical interest - several leading politicians are buried here, including Salvador Allende, and there is a memorial to all those who disappeared during the Pinochet years.

Profesor Alberto Zañartu 951
Santiago
Chile
Tel: (02) 737 9469.
Web: www.cementeriogeneral.cl
Opening hours: Daily 0830-1800.
Admission Fee: No
Disabled Access: Yes


Iglesia de San Francisco (Church of St Francis)
Just off Santiago's hectic main thoroughfare, the thick walls of the Iglesia de San Francisco, with the adjacent Franciscan Monastery, provide a peaceful haven from the downtown traffic. The church was originally built in the late 16th century by Chile's conquistador, Pedro de Valdivia, and it has survived regular earthquakes (although its tower has gone through several incarnations). It is one of Santiago's oldest buildings and the adjacent former monastery houses the Museo Colonial San Francisco (Colonial Museum of St Francis), which contains a collection of ecclesiastical art dating from the colonial era.

which contains a collection of ecclesiastical art dating from th
(Colonial Museum of St Francis)
Santiago
Chile
Tel: (02) 639 8737.
Opening hours: Tues-Sat 1000-1300 and 1500-1800, Sun 1000-1400.
Admission Fee: No
Disabled Access: Yes


Mercado Central (Central Market)
A wrought-iron structure (shipped out piece by piece from England in the 19th century) is home to Santiago's Central Market, on the south bank of the Rio Mapocho. With a bustling fish market on the outside, it is the restaurants within that have become the real attraction. Some of the central options under the high ceiling are a bit of a tourist trap - but many visitors don't mind paying for the memorable atmosphere.

Calle Puente and Calle San Pablo, Santiago
Chile
Opening hours: Dawn to late afternoon.
Admission Fee: No
Disabled Access: Yes


Museo Casa La Chascona (La Chascona House Museum)
Nobel-Prize-winning poet Pablo Neruda's Santiago pied-à-terre is situated in the lively Bellavista neighbourhood. A series of small buildings, rather than a single house, La Chascona has been meticulously restored since it was vandalised by supporters of General Pinochet and now houses a collection of Neruda's possessions. Visitors are taken on a guided tour (Spanish or English) through the house, where the history behind the furniture and possessions is explained.

Fernando Márquez de la Plata 0192
Santiago
Chile
Tel: (02) 777 8741.
Web: www.fundacionneruda.org
Opening hours: Tues-Sun 1000-1800.
Admission Fee: Yes
Disabled Access: Yes


Museo Chileno de Arte Precolombino (Chilean Museum of Pre-Columbian Art)
If you only have time to visit one museum in Santiago, make sure this is the one. The Museum of Pre-Colombian Art houses a world-class collection of artefacts from Latin America's pre-Hispanic civilisations. Located in a handsome colonial building, the Palacio de la Real Aduana (Royal Customs House), it exhibits intricately crafted artwork in ceramics, metals, textiles and wood. Tastefully presented and meticulously cared for, the items on show give a unique insight into the lost cultures of the Maya, Aztecs, Incas and other groups which once dominated this vast continent.

Bandera 361
Santiago
Chile
Tel: (02) 688 7348.
Web: www.precolombino.cl
Opening hours: Tues-Sun 1000-1800.
Admission Fee: Yes
Disabled Access: Yes


Museo Histórico Nacional (National History Museum)
The colonial Palacio de la Real Audiencia houses the absorbing Museo Histórico Nacional, which has a fine series of chronological exhibits on Chile's development from the colonial period through to independence and the modern era, ending abruptly with the military coup in 1973. There is a small exhibit on Chile's indigenous culture.

Plaza de Armas
Santiago
Chile
Tel: (02) 411 7000.
Web: www.dibam.cl/historico_nacional
Opening hours: Tues-Sun 1000-1730.
Admission Fee: Yes
Disabled Access: Yes


Museo de la Solidaridad Salvador Allende (Salvador Allende Museum of Solidarity)
This museum, which has changed locations several times in recent years, houses works of art donated by artists from around the world. The collection began in 1971 when a group of artists and thinkers decided to bring together contemporary works of art to show their sympathy with the socialist policies of the Salvador Allende government. During Pinochet's military dictatorship, exiled artists continued the project and the collection now includes donations by artists from over 39 countries such as Joan Miró, Roberto Matta, Antonio Saura and Yoko Ono.

Avenida República 475
Santiago
Chile
Tel: (02) 689 8761.
Web: www.museodelasolidaridad.cl
Opening hours: Tues-Sun 1000-1800.
Admission Fee: Yes
Disabled Access: Yes


Palacio de Bellas Artes (Palace of Fine Arts)
This fine arts museum, housed in a turn-of-the-century copy of Paris' Petit Palais, shows the city's aspirations to lift itself out of the cultural wilderness. It occupies an entire block in the Parque Forestal area and has Chile's best collection of painting and sculpture. It regularly hosts exhibitions by contemporary artists from Chile and abroad. Perhaps the most interesting displays are from the early colonial artists charting the growth of the modern nation.

Parque Forestal
Santiago
Chile
Tel: (02) 633 4472.
Web: www.dibam.cl/bellas_artes
Opening hours: Tues-Sun 1000-1850.
Admission Fee: Yes
Disabled Access: Yes


Palacio de la Moneda (Moneda Palace)
Once the official mint, la Moneda became the presidential residence in 1846. While Chile's head of state no longer lives on site, the building's presidential offices are still used. The bombing of Moneda Palace by air force jets during General Augusto Pinochet's coup against Salvador Allende's Marxist government in 1973 remains an enduring image of the 20th century. Allende took his own life in this building with a gun given to him, according to local legend, by Fidel Castro. Visitors can stroll along the courtyard that runs through the middle of the building, and can arrange to visit the interior with an advance booking. On the south side of the Moneda Palace, on (or rather under) Plaza de la Ciudadanía, is the modern Centro Cultural Palacio de la Moneda, which has a series of exhibition spaces and some first-rate exhibitions. There is also an excellent shop selling traditional Chilean handicrafts.

Avenida Bernardo O'Higgins (Alameda), Santiago
Chile
Tel: (02) 690 4236.
Web: www.visitchile.com/en/la-moneda-palace
Opening hours: Tours need to be arranged in advance.
Admission Fee: No
Disabled Access: Yes

Culture

If you're interested in sampling culture within the city, there is a wealth of things on offer.Music and Dance

Teatro Municipal

Teatro Municipal is an ornate 19th-century theatre built in a European style by Frenchman Charles Garnier, architect of the casino in Monte Carlo. The Santiago Ballet and the Santiago Philharmonic Orchestra both perform here, often together, and it has been the scene of some world-class tango performances. Calle Agustinas 794 Tel: (02) 463 8888 or 1000. www.municipal.cl

Theatre

Teatro Nacional

Teatro Nacional is a highly reputable and puts on more contemporary productions. Calle Morandé 25 Tel: (02) 696 1200. www.tnch.uchile.cl

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