Tokyo, Japan

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Airport: Tokyo Narita (NRT)
Served by: American Airlines, British Airways, Cathay Pacific, Finnair, JAL Japan Airlines, Qantas

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Airport: Tokyo Haneda (HND)
Served by: American Airlines, British Airways, Cathay Pacific, JAL Japan Airlines

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City Statistics

Location: Kanto region, eastern Japan.

Time zone: GMT + 9.

Electricity: 100 volts AC, 50/60Hz; flat two-pin American-style plugs are standard.

Overview

Shining skyscrapers towering above stunning Shinto shrines, and flashing neon lights bathing kimono-clad women: this is Tokyo and it's a city that thrills. Brash electronics jostle next to upscale boutiques, giggling schoolgirls doll up for cosplay and salarymen cram onto commuter trains. In Tokyo, you will find everything, from peace memorials, smoking incense and folded prayers, to skull-thumping arcade games and toilets with more settings than your mobile phone. Dine in world-class restaurants, shop in the world's largest fish market and taste the world's best sushi. Duck into roadside cafés to slurp steaming noodles and hide out in bars sipping sake and shochu. Sleep on tatami mats, steam in volcanic onsens, belt out karaoke and gaze up at Mount Fuji. Effortlessly blending the old and the new, Tokyo is a city with a history and a heart that captivates every visitor.

Getting There By Air

With Tokyo's position in the business world, it's relatively easy to find flights from London, although much harder from other airports in the UK. Virgin Atlantic, British Airways, Japan Airlines and All Nippon Airways all fly direct from London Heathrow. You can sometimes find a cheaper deal by flying indirectly through another European hub, such as Paris with Air France, or Rome with Alitalia.From London - 12 hours; New York - 14 hours; Los Angeles - 11 hours 30 minutes; Sydney - 9 hours 30 minutes.

Tokyo Narita International Airport (NRT)
Tel: (04) 7632 2802 or 7634 8000.
Web: www.narita-airport.jp/en
Tokyo Narita International Airport is located 65km (40 miles) east of Tokyo.

Airport facilities:
Both terminals have banks, ATMs, bureaux de change and postal services.

Haneda Airport (HND)
Tel: (03) 5757 8111
Web: www.haneda-airport.jp/inter/en/
Haneda, Tokyo's domestic airport, is conveniently located 16km (10 miles) south of central Tokyo.

Airport facilities:
Facilities include ATMs, post office, banks, travel agent, restaurants and souvenir shops, left-luggage service, luggage delivery service, information counter and car hire. There are no business facilities at the airport. A free shuttle bus is available between the terminals.

Getting Around

Public Transport: In Tokyo, public transport is fast and effective. People are friendly and willing to help, and many signs are in English. However, several different companies run the underground, overland and bus services, making your choice of ticket at the automated machines sometimes feel like a lottery. Luckily, you can just go for the cheapest option and make up the difference at the end (either when you reach your final destination or when you realise you have to change companies). The two principal companies running Tokyo's public transport system, Toei Subways (www.kotsu.metro.tokyo.jp/eng/index.html) and Tokyo Metro (tel: (03) 3941 2004; www.tokyometro.jp/en/index.html), can provide more information on travel passes and routes.

Taxis: It's easy to find a taxi in Tokyo, either on the street or at taxi ranks near main stations, though they're not cheap. Tipping is not customary and could offend. Taxi drivers rarely speak English, so make sure you have your destination written out in Japanese. Nihon Kotsu (tel: (03) 5755 2336) is one of the biggest and most reliable taxi companies in Tokyo.

Driving in the City: Simply put, it's just not a good idea to drive around Tokyo. Public transport is excellent and taxis are reliable, whereas traffic is heavy, navigation is near impossible and parking is expensive and difficult to find.

Car Hire: You'll need both a national driving licence and an International Driving Permit to drive in Japan. The minimum age for hiring a car varies, although most places won't rent to under-21s. The biggest car hire company, with 150 branches in the Tokyo area, is Nippon Rent-A-Car (tel: (03) 3485 7196; www.nipponrentacar.co.jp).

Bicycle Hire: You can often hire bicycles at suburban train stations.

Hotels

Hotels
As you might expect from a city this size, Tokyo offers an enormous array of places to lay your head. From traditional Japanese futons and western king-size luxury, to wacky pay-by-the-hour 'love hotels' and tiny capsule pods, there is a room to suit every budget. As with everything else in Tokyo, the neighbourhood you choose determines the flair and flavour of your visit. However, one thing does remain a constant - hotel rooms are small, so if space is important to you, prepare to pay for it. The Tokyo hotels below have been grouped into three pricing categories: Luxury (over ¥40,000) Moderate (¥18,000 to ¥40,000) Cheap (up to ¥18,000) These Tokyo hotel prices are the starting prices for a standard double room and include taxes and breakfast unless otherwise specified.

Cheap

Hotel Asia Center of Japan
Quite possibly offering the cheapest double rooms in central Tokyo, this hotel has an old-fashioned décor at an old-fashioned price. Those seeking sleek modern rooms will be left disappointed, but as a central base for a short visit, this hotel cannot be beaten. Within walking distance of the expat haven of Roppongi, and the restaurants and bars of Aoyama Itchome, guests are well placed for sightseeing.

Akasaka
8-10-32 Chome
Minato-ku
Japan
Tel: (03) 3402 6111.
Web: www.asiacenter.or.jp

Hotel Niwa Tokyo
Putting a funky twist into traditional Japanese-style accommodation, Hotel Niwa Tokyo provides Western-style beds but Japanese screens and gardens. Hotel Niwa Tokyo has an eye for design and although moderate in size, it creates a spacious, fresh and tranquil atmosphere. With a massage chair in the work-out room, the hotel pays attention to small details, leaving you to both relax and recharge. Towards the top of the 'cheap' price range.

1-1-16 Misaki-cho, Chiyoda-ku
Tokyo
Japan
Tel: (03) 3293 0028.
Web: www.hotelniwa.jp

Tokyo Inn
Clean and comfortable and located near Shinagawa Station, the Tokyo Inn labels itself as a budget hotel but provides more than a bare-bones, no-frills experience. The décor hasn't quite caught up with the 21st century but the facilities have, with free internet access in the lobby and connections available in some rooms.

2-31-6 Kitamagome, Ota-Ku
Tokyo
Japan
Tel: (03) 3778 3511.
Web: www.tokyo-inn.co.jp/en

Luxury

Imperial Hotel
The grand dame of Tokyo's international hotels, Imperial Hotel's reputation for impeccable service can be traced back to its 1890 origins. Many changes have taken place since then however, including the unfortunate demolition of the art deco building designed by world-renowned architect Frank Lloyd Wright, which had incredibly survived Tokyo's devastating 1923 earthquake.

Chiyoda-ku
1-1-1 Uchisaiwai-cho
Tokyo
Japan
Tel: (03) 3504 1111.
Web: www.imperialhotel.co.jp

Park Hyatt Tokyo
The Park Hyatt Tokyo's role as muse and backdrop to Coppola's Lost in Translation pushed it onto the world stage in 2003. Towering over fashionable Shinjuku, guests enter on the 41st floor and gaze across the neon-lit Tokyo sky. Art blends with sleek architecture and spacious rooms, and even the spa combines tradition and modernisation with impressive success. Plus, there's something to be said for working out in the gym that tormented Bill Murray.

Shinjuku-ku
3-7-1-2 Nishi-Shinjuku
Tokyo
Japan
Tel: (03) 5322 1234.
Web: www.tokyo.park.hyatt.com

The Capitol Hotel Tokyu
The Capitol Hotel Tokyu returned to Tokyo's luxury scene in 2010, reincarnated as a modern take on traditional Japanese hospitality. In the good old days, it hosted Eric Clapton, Tina Turner and the Beatles, and you can still find a slice of that exciting rock-pop history in its renovated Capitol Bar. Elsewhere, however, it's cool green lines, flowing water and privacy right in the heart of Tokyo.

2-10-3 Nagata-cho, Chiyoda-ku
Tokyo
Japan
Tel: (03) 3503 0109.
Web: www.capitolhoteltokyu.com/ja/index.html

Moderate

Hotel Nikko Tokyo
Dubbed an 'urban resort hotel', the curved Hotel Nikko Tokyo sits in Tokyo's bustling waterfront area, right by the Tokyo Big Sight exhibition centre. Each room has a private balcony overlooking the bay, while sophisticated rooftop suites throw in private gardens and Jacuzzis. With contemporary design, pale colours, natural materials and works of art, Hotel Nikko Tokyo creates an airy feel away from the city centre.

Minato-ku
1-9-1 Daiba
Tokyo
Japan
Tel: (03) 5500 5500.
Web: www.hnt.co.jp/en/info.html

Ginza Yoshimizu
Tucked away in a quiet side street in Tokyo, this traditional Japanese B&B is a welcome oasis in the urban landscape of neons and giant TV screens of buzzing Ginza. With carefully selected natural materials throughout, as well as an organic restaurant on site, the emphasis here is very much on healthy living, and a return to a more traditional way of life.

3-11-3 Ginza Chuo-ku
Tokyo
Japan
Tel: (03) 3248 4432.
Web: www.yoshimizu.com

Ryokan Shigetsu
Just minutes from Tokyo's famous Sensoji Temple, this small but beautiful ryokan is the perfect base for exploring the bustling neighbourhood of Asakusa. Bowing kimono-clad receptionists welcome you into a small but bright lobby, filled with calligraphy and Japanese nick nacks. Bedrooms are spacious with sliding doors and en-suite bathrooms, all in the simple Japanese style. A refreshing change from bland, giant hotel chains.

Taito-ku
1-31-11 Asakusa
Tokyo
Japan
Tel: (03) 3843 2345.
Web: www.shigetsu.com

Business Etiquette

While Tokyoites are generally the most cosmopolitan of Japanese, many will be reserved in the company of foreigners, particularly when called upon to speak English. Whereas almost everyone under 50 has some basic knowledge of English, very few are able to speak fluently.

Misunderstandings can easily occur, and the use of professional interpreters is advised. Foreigners are not expected to understand the complexities of Japanese etiquette, and allowances will be made cheerfully.

However, it is worth bearing in mind that shoes must be removed upon entering homes, as well as some offices and restaurants. Also, tips are never expected - the practice is considered vulgar, as is eating while walking. Blowing one's nose in public should also be avoided (it is, however, perfectly acceptable to sniff). Business clothes should be smart but conservative, with suits a must for both men and women.

For men, grey and navy are the favoured colours amongst the conservative business class. It is probably impossible to be over dressed in Japan and business visitors can expect to be judged by their appearance. Business cards are an essential part of introductions - no one can expect to be taken seriously without them.

Corporate entertaining is done mainly in restaurants and izakaya (drinking halls). Invitations to the homes of business associates are unusual. Drinking (beer, whisky and sake) is very much part of the culture, as is smoking. Corporate entertaining remains largely male dominated and business travellers' partners are rarely invited to such events.

For the most part, foreign businesswomen tend to be treated as one of the guys, and it is not unknown for them to be taken to strip clubs. Compared to the west, there are remarkably fewer Japanese businesswomen. Gifts are very important (they need not be particularly large or lavish) and are exchanged with great ceremony.

It is usual to refer to colleagues by their surnames and hierarchies should be respected. Business negotiations may require patience as directness is mistrusted and disliked, thus straight ‘yes' or ‘no' answers are generally avoided. Impatience is frowned upon, and confrontation is out of the question, as it is considered a sign of gross weakness. Apologies and thanks are very important and should not be rushed.

Normal business hours are 0900-1700 Monday to Friday.

Sightseeing

Sightseeing Overview: From the hectic multi-road crossing at Shibuya (made famous in Lost in Translation) to the peaceful tree-filled gardens at Meiji-jingu, the city's key sights are varied and mesmerising. Watch the fashion-obsessed teens every Sunday in Shibuya, step back in time in Asakusa's crowded street stalls, and revel in the neon lit view from the top of Roppongi's Tokyo Tower.

Unlike other cities of its size and significance, however, Tokyo lacks a definable centre or landmark. Instead the city is divided into separate and wholly distinct neighbourhoods, each with their own secrets to discover. The best way to navigate these mini-cities is on the excellent Metro system, specifically the Yamanote Line, a commuter train loop which passes through many of Tokyo's major stations.

But as with all of Japan, the key to discovering the true Tokyo lies in the details. Simply wandering though an area reveals the secrets that make this city so unique.

With no street names, however, finding exactly where a building is in Tokyo can be fiendishly difficult. Buying a detailed bilingual map will certainly help, and with so little crime to solve, the police in their boxes (called koban) on practically every corner are both plentiful and experienced in redirecting the lost traveller.

Lastly, study the large and detailed maps on display at every Metro station. These clearly show which exit is needed, in English.

Tourist Information: The Japanese National Tourist Organisation (JNTO) runs two Tourist Information Centres (TIC) in Tokyo, one in Narita Airport and one in central Tokyo. They both offer a wealth of information to the new arrival; detailed maps, guides to Japanese culture and hotel information. English speaking staff can book your accommodation commission free and are a fantastic source of local knowledge.

Tokyo Tourist Information Center (TIC)
10F, Tokyo Kotsu Kaikan Building, 2-10-1 Yurakucho, Chiyoda-ku
Tel: (03) 3201 3331.
Website: www.jnto.go.jp

Passes: There are no sightseeing passes as such in Tokyo, but a couple of guides printed by the Tokyo Convention & Visitors Bureau offer discount vouchers to foreign visitors. The Tokyo Museum Guide for example offers discounts in art galleries and museums, while the Tokyo Handy Guide covers more than 30+ affiliated attractions.

Key Attractions

Edo-Tokyo Hakubutsukan
Housed in what looks like a colossal white spaceship, the Edo-Tokyo Museum is a wonderful place for visitors to get a feel for Tokyo's history and culture. The permanent exhibition is divided into three distinct areas, while temporary exhibitions regularly spice things up. The 'Edo Zone' opens with a replica of Nihombashi 'Bridge of Japan', which takes you on the tour throughout Tokyo's post-war reconstruction, political challenges and changes to everyday life.

Sumida-ku
1-4-1 Yokoami
Tokyo
Japan
Tel: (03) 3626 9974.
Web: www.edo-tokyo-museum.or.jp
Opening hours: Tues-Sun 0930-1730 (Saturdays until 1930).
Admission Fee: Yes
Disabled Access: Yes

Kyoko Higashi-gyoen
The Imperial Palace East Garden, on the site of the shoguns' old Edo Castle, is the only part of the Imperial Palace regularly open to the public. If you're looking for a combination of restraint, elegance, formal gardens complete with moat then you've come to the right place. Enter through the Otemon Gate, which used to be the castle's main entrance, to see a section of the original moat plus the foundations of the inner castle. You'll also find a teahouse, a pond and a waterfall.

Chiyoda-ku
Otemachi
Tokyo
Japan
Tel: (03) 3213 1111.
Opening hours: Daily 0900-1630.
Admission Fee: No
Disabled Access: Yes

Meiji-jingu
One of Japan's finest examples of Shinto architecture, the atmospheric Meiji-jingu (Meiji Shrine) is tucked away in the centre of a dark, cool forest - an unexpected oasis in the centre of the city. Passing through a vast wooden torii gate, you'll follow a wide gravel path deep into the forest and then the shrine itself. Look out for the rather unexpected homage to French wine – to honour the memory of Emperor Meiji and Empress Shoken and their approach to modernisation and harmony with the outside world.

Kamizono-cho
1-1 Yoyogi
Shibuya-ku
Japan
Tel: (03) 3320 5700.
Web: www.meijijingu.or.jp
Opening hours: Daily dawn to dusk (can vary, but usually 0500/0600-1600/1700).
Admission Fee: No (charge for the Gyoen Inner Garden)
Disabled Access: Yes

Sensoji Temple
This is Tokyo's most revered Buddhist temple, and pilgrims have flocked here for over 1,000 years – though its size, noise and commerce may surprise you. A military commander commissioned Sensoji's entrance gate – and boy does it show! Giant lanterns watch over smoking incense, swirling crowds and teeming shops. Originally founded in AD628 to enshrine a statuette of the Kannon Bodhisattva (the Goddess of Mercy), damage from bombing raids mean that today you'll find a lavish, five-storey reconstruction. Smoke from the huge incense burner in front of the temple is said to have healing powers.

Daito-ku
2-3-1 Asakusa
Tokyo
111-0032
Japan
Tel: (03) 3842 5566.
Web: www.senso-ji.jp
Opening hours: Daily 24 hours (grounds), 0600-1700 (hall).
Admission Fee: No
Disabled Access: Yes

Shinjuku-gyoen
For an impressive blend of Japanese and French gardens, head to Shinjuku-gyoen. Originally created for the royal family, these may well be the most beautiful gardens in Tokyo. It's a tradition here to grab your family and a picnic and hang around the gardens on a sunny day. If the weather's not so good, there's also an imperial villa and a tropical greenhouse to explore. Visit in the spring if you can to catch a glimpse of that iconic Japanese bloom: cherry blossom.

Shinjuku-ku
11 Naito-cho
Tokyo
Japan
Tel: (03) 3350 0151.
Web: www.env.go.jp/garden/shinjukugyoen/english
Opening hours: Tues-Sun 0900-1630.
Admission Fee: Yes
Disabled Access: Yes

Tokyo Disney Resort
Tokyo Disney Resort is a faithful replica of the Californian original, complete with Adventureland, Fantasyland and Tomorrowland, as well as shows, parades and firework displays. The unique DisneySea Park, set against the backdrop of Tokyo Bay, and offering several country-themed areas, is proving enormously popular amongst a more mature crowd.

Urayasu-shi
1-1 Maihama
Tokyo
Japan
Tel: (045) 330 5211.
Web: www.tokyodisneyresort.co.jp/en/index.html
Opening hours: Daily 1000-1800.
Admission Fee: Yes
Disabled Access: Yes

Tokyo Tocho
The Tokyo Metropolitan Government Offices may not sound exciting, however their extraordinary architecture and the free observation decks on the 45th floor make up for the boring name. Designed by Kenzo Tange, one of Japan's top architects, the monumental twin towers apparently took inspiration from Notre Dame in Paris. To perhaps everyone other than the architect, though, Batman's Gotham City springs to mind. The observation decks (one in each brooding, granite tower) have high-speed lifts to give you spectacular views across the city. When the Tokyo mist lifts, you can even see the legendary Mount Fuji.

Shinjuku-ku
2-8-1 Nishi-Shinjuku
Tokyo
Japan
Tel: (03) 5321 1111.
Web: www.metro.tokyo.jp/ENGLISH/TMG/outline.htm
Opening hours: Daily 0930-2300(north deck), 0930-1730 (south deck).
Admission Fee: No
Disabled Access: Yes

Tokyo Tower
Opened in 1958, this 333m (1,092ft) red-and-white tower is an almost exact replica of the Eiffel Tower in Paris. However, it's not only the extra height that's made the difference. Not only is the Tokyo Tower taller than its French counterpart but it also includes an aquarium, several gift shops and a waxwork exhibit. The 250m-high (820ft) observation tower offers views as far as Mt Fuji - although you'll have to be lucky and have a very clear day if you want to see that far.

Minato-ku
4-2-8 Shinbakoen
Tokyo
Japan
Tel: (03) 3433 5111.
Web: www.tokyotower.co.jp
Opening hours: Daily 0900-2200.
Admission Fee: Yes
Disabled Access: Yes

Culture

If you're interested in sampling culture within the city, there is a wealth of things on offer.Classical Music

New National Theatre Tokyo
This gleaming complex displays classical opera as well as ballet. Information is freely available in English, and its location in Shinjuku means that it's easy to find food and bars nearby to make the most of your evening out.

1-1-1 Hon-machi, Shibuya-ku, Tokyo
Tel: (03) 5351 3011.
Website: www.nntt.jac.go.jp

Suntory Hall
For classical music in a spectacular location in Tokyo, look no further than the grand Suntory Hall. With hanging lights and a resplendent organ, Suntory Hall knows how to coordinate a concert.

1-13-1 Akasaka, Minato-ku, Tokyo
Tel: (03) 3584 9999.
Website: www.suntory.co.jp/suntoryhall

Dance

Tokyo International Forum
The vast glass and metal complex that is the Tokyo International Forum certainly keeps itself busy. Here, alongside routine conventions and exhibitions, you’ll also find inspiring ballet, antique fairs, orchid exchanges and musical concerts. 3-5-1 Marunouchi, Chiyoda-ku, Tokyo. Tel: (03) 5221 9000.
Web: http://www.t-i-forum.co.jp/english

Theatre

Tokyo Takarazuka Theatre
Contemporary Japanese theatre tends towards the obscure, and the language barrier is an additional dissuasion. Far more accessible are the extravagant review-style performances of the glamorous, all-female Takarazuka troop, held at the Tokyo Takarazuka Theatre.

1-1-3 Yurakucho, Chiyoda-ku, Tokyo
Tel: (03) 5251 2001.
Website: www.kageki.hankyu.co.jp

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